How do Iranian Sunnis survive in a Shiite-dominated landscape? This is a common question among people who follow Iranian affairs, given reports suggesting that Sunnis suffer from religious discrimination nationwide, such as not being allowed to build mosques in major cities or to practice their religious rituals. Iran's Sunnis encompass a range of ethnic minorities, from Arabs to Kurds to Turkmens. In August, I visited Sunni Kurdish cities in northwest Iran, attending a wedding in Bukan and then traveling to neighboring Mahabad and Saqqez to see how Iranian Sunni Kurds live. It was my first time in the area, which extends over the large provinces of Kurdistan and West Azerbaijan.
The route to Bukan was mountainous. The farther we drove, the more mountains we encountered. You got the feeling that all the country’s secrets lie hidden behind the last mountain, but that you would never get there. We arrived in Bukan quite late, but not too late for the traditional hana bandan, a pre-wedding ritual that involves adorning the bride with henna.
